Retinol, a form of vitamin A, has long been praised for its potent anti-aging and skin-renewing properties (Levin, J., & Momin, S. B., 2010). It's a darling of the beauty industry, lauded by skincare enthusiasts worldwide. But there's a catch. Excessive use can lead to damaging effects. Let's dig into it:
The first issue is skin irritation.
Studies have shown that overuse of retinol can lead to skin irritation, ranging from mild redness to severe dryness, peeling, and flaking (Kligman, A. M., & Duo, C. H., 1984). Furthermore, the protective barrier of the skin can be compromised, leading to dehydration and increased susceptibility to environmental stressors.
Next, retinol is known for increasing sun sensitivity.
One study found that retinoid users had a higher incidence of sunburn, even with the use of sun protection (Ozpinar, A., & Liu, Y., 2020). This increased sensitivity could raise the risk of skin damage and potentially skin cancer.
Overuse can also cause hyperpigmentation and photosensitivity. Especially for those with darker skin tones, high doses of retinol can result in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (Babamiri, K., & Nassab, R., 2018). Furthermore, retinol can heighten skin's sensitivity to UV rays, increasing the risk of sun-induced damage.
Ironically, excessive retinol use can lead to premature aging.
Chronic inflammation and irritation from overuse can lead to the breakdown of collagen and elastin, essential proteins for skin elasticity and youthfulness (Varani, J., Warner, R. L., Gharaee-Kermani, M., Phan, S. H., Kang, S., Chung, J. H., ... & Fisher, G. J., 2000).
Lastly, overusing retinol can result in skin sensitization, a condition that makes skin more reactive to other skincare products and could cause allergic reactions (Zirwas, M. J., & Stechschulte, S. A., 2018).
In conclusion, moderation is key with retinol. Always consult a dermatologist before starting a retinol regimen, particularly if you have sensitive skin or existing conditions. Remember, when it comes to potent skincare ingredients like retinol, less is often more or using a retinol alternative!
References:
Levin, J., & Momin, S. B. (2010). How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients?. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 3(2), 22–41.
Kligman, A. M., & Duo, C. H. (1984). Topical tretinoin for photoaged skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 11(4), 663-681.
Ozpinar, A., & Liu, Y. (2020). Retinoid dermatitis mimicking facial erysipelas after aesthetic procedures: a report of four cases. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 34(9), e492-e494.
Babamiri, K., & Nassab, R. (2018). Cosmetic and skincare treatment complications in skin of color patients. The American Journal of Cosmetic Surgery, 35(2), 77-83.
Varani, J., Warner, R. L., Gharaee-Kermani, M., Phan, S. H., Kang, S., Chung, J. H., ... & Fisher, G. J. (2000). Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 114(3), 480-486.